This project started as a conversation between friends at a bar. At the time I had no clue that it would grow into any sort of actuality. Now I am on a personal quest to visit all fifty-eight national parks in a single year. This blog is meant to chronicle the preparations, investigations and ruminations that take place over the next twelve months.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Kobuk Valley


Alaska is 470 times larger than my native Rhode Island. The 6640 miles of shoreline in the Last Frontier make my own “Ocean State’s” 400 seem insignificant at best.

Google Maps is unable to calculate the drive from Juneau, in the southeast corner of the titanic state to Point Hope, the westernmost elbow of northern Alaska. This is because most of the roads north of Fairbanks aren’t roads at all. They are snowmobile tracks and dogsled paths. To get places in Alaska, people fly. It is not a cheap place to be a tourist.

For this reason, I foresee Alaska being the single biggest roadblock to completing this challenge (primarily due to the fact that I am not on the loosest of budgets). Kobuk Valley National Park, nestled between the Waring and Bard Mountains of northwest Alaska, is far and away the least visited National Park. According to NPS statistics, in 2007 the park had an all-time low of only 847 visitors (that figure has risen slightly in recent years). That means in 2007 only 16 people a week made it to the park. Those must be some lonely park rangers.



Isolated beauty comes at a price. To explore the valley most people need to take two flights once they’re in Alaska before they even get to see the park. The first brings you from Anchorage or Fairbanks to Kotzebue, the town nearest the park (about 100 miles). From there, you can charter a private plane or boat to take you into the park and nearby villages. In the winter, well-supplied snowmobiles can make the trek.

Which makes it all the more rewarding to finally see one of the most beautiful areas of North America. When a land bridge connected modern day Alaska to the Asian continent, Kobuk valley was one of the few (relatively) lush, ice free sanctuaries—a paradise for mastodons, bison and mammoths.

In the ensuing 13,000 years, climates changed, ocean levels shifted and the land bridge flooded, yet Kobuk Valley remained the environmental refuge it once was.

Unlike many of the Alaskan national parks, there are no glaciers in Kobuk Valley today. Geologists have identified at least five glaciations that have moved through the area of the park, and these massive moving ice fields deposited huge amounts of sediment, which over the course of thousands of years has eroded to sand.

This sand has been worked by the prevailing easterly winds into massive dune fields currently covering over 20,000 acres. While the Great Kobuk Sand Dunes currently cover only 23.5 square miles, the NPS website posits that they once stretched across 300 square miles—roughly the size of all the land in New York City.



I intend to make my way to this deserted corner of the country and spend four days rafting down the leisurely Kobuk river during the 24 hour daylight that bathes Alaska from the beginning of June to the beginning of July. Here, when the summer temperatures can reach 100˚F, I plan on boogie-boarding down 100 foot tall sand hills in the largest active dune field within the arctic. It will be one of the few ways I’ll be able to remember my home in the Ocean State.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Poem in its entirety


GLOOMS of the live-oaks, beautiful-braided and woven

With intricate shades of the vines that myriad-cloven

  Clamber the forks of the multiform boughs,--

                        Emerald twilights,--

                        Virginal shy lights,

Wrought of the leaves to allure to the whisper of vows,

When lovers pace timidly down through the green colonnades

Of the dim sweet woods, of the dear dark woods,

  Of the heavenly woods and glades,

That run to the radiant marginal sand-beach within

        The wide sea-marshes of Glynn;--

Beautiful glooms, soft dusks in the noon-day fire,--

Wildwood privacies, closets of lone desire,

Chamber from chamber parted with wavering arras of leaves,--

Cells for the passionate pleasure of prayer to the soul that grieves,

Pure with a sense of the passing of saints through the wood,

Cool for the dutiful weighing of ill with good;--

O braided dusks of the oak and woven shades of the vine,

While the riotous noon-day sun of the June-day long did shine

Ye held me fast in your heart and I held you fast in mine;

But now when the noon is no more, and riot is rest,

And the sun is a-wait at the ponderous gate of the West,

And the slant yellow beam down the wood-aisle doth seem

Like a lane into heaven that leads from a dream,--

Ay, now, when my soul all day hath drunken the soul of the oak,

And my heart is at ease from men, and the wearisome sound of the stroke

  Of the scythe of time and the trowel of trade is low,

  And belief overmasters doubt, and I know that I know,

  And my spirit is grown to a lordly great compass within,

That the length and the breadth and the sweep of the marshes of Glynn

Will work me no fear like the fear they have wrought me of yore

When length was fatigue, and when breadth was but bitterness sore,

And when terror and shrinking and dreary unnamable pain

Drew over me out of the merciless miles of the plain,--

Oh, now, unafraid, I am fain to face

  The vast sweet visage of space.

To the edge of the wood I am drawn, I am drawn,

Where the gray beach glimmering runs, as a belt of the dawn,

  For a mete and a mark

    To the forest-dark:--

                        So:

Affable live-oak, leaning low,--

Thus--with your favor--soft, with a reverent hand,

(Not lightly touching your person, Lord of the land!)

Bending your beauty aside, with a step I stand

On the firm-packed sand,

                        Free

By a world of marsh that borders a world of sea.

  Sinuous southward and sinuous northward the shimmering band

  Of the sand-beach fastens the fringe of the marsh to the folds of the land.

Inward and outward to northward and southward the beach-lines linger and curl

As a silver-wrought garment that clings to and follows

    the firm sweet limbs of a girl.

Vanishing, swerving, evermore curving again into sight,

Softly the sand-beach wavers away to a dim gray looping of light.

And what if behind me to westward the wall of the woods stands high?

The world lies east: how ample, the marsh and the sea and the sky!

A league and a league of marsh-grass, waist-high, broad in the blade,

Green, and all of a height, and unflecked with a light or a shade,

Stretch leisurely off, in a pleasant plain,

To the terminal blue of the main.

Oh, what is abroad in the marsh and the terminal sea?

  Somehow my soul seems suddenly free

From the weighing of fate and the sad discussion of sin,

By the length and the breadth and the sweep of the marshes of Glynn.

Ye marshes, how candid and simple and nothing-withholding and free

Ye publish yourselves to the sky and offer yourselves to the sea!

Tolerant plains, that suffer the sea and the rains and the sun,

Ye spread and span like the catholic man who hath mightily won

God out of knowledge and good out of infinite pain

And sight out of blindness and purity out of a stain.

As the marsh-hen secretly builds on the watery sod,

Behold I will build me a nest on the greatness of God:

I will fly in the greatness of God as the marsh-hen flies

In the freedom that fills all the space 'twixt the marsh and the skies:

By so many roots as the marsh-grass sends in the sod

I will heartily lay me a-hold on the greatness of God:

Oh, like to the greatness of God is the greatness within

The range of the marshes, the liberal marshes of Glynn.

And the sea lends large, as the marsh: lo, out of his plenty the sea

Pours fast: full soon the time of the flood-tide must be:

Look how the grace of the sea doth go

About and about through the intricate channels that flow

        Here and there,

                        Everywhere,

Till his waters have flooded the uttermost creeks and the low-lying lanes,

And the marsh is meshed with a million veins,

That like as with rosy and silvery essences flow

  In the rose-and-silver evening glow.

                        Farewell, my lord Sun!

The creeks overflow: a thousand rivulets run

'Twixt the roots of the sod; the blades of the marsh-grass stir;

Passeth a hurrying sound of wings that westward whirr;

Passeth, and all is still; and the currents cease to run;

And the sea and the marsh are one.

How still the plains of the waters be!

The tide is in his ecstasy.

The tide is at his highest height:

                        And it is night.

And now from the Vast of the Lord will the waters of sleep

Roll in on the souls of men,

But who will reveal to our waking ken

The forms that swim and the shapes that creep

                        Under the waters of sleep?

And I would I could know what swimmeth below when the tide comes in

On the length and the breadth of the marvellous marshes of Glynn.


Florida's Feral Cats


Cats are killing the everglades. The biggest wetlands in America are being threatened by colonies of feral cats. To understand why, I tried to conduct a (somewhat professional) study of what makes a wetlands work.

The idea of wetlands holds a special place in our collective unconscious. The bogs, swamps and marshes of our imagination are home to dark and mysterious life. They are the natural world’s embalmers, places of death and decay—biologically rich yet terrifyingly shadowy.

The word ‘swamp’ has come to mean ‘overwhelming’. We talk about being swamped with information, about events swamping the media. The word has come to evoke the all-encompassing sticky muck that we cannot get off our hands.

In real life however, swamps, marshes, wetlands in general, are beautiful. Instead of being hostile and morbid, these buffer zones between land and water are tranquil and teeming with life.

The United States has four distinct wetlands areas, roughly corresponding to the four basic geographical regions. The brackish marshes of the northeast are worlds apart from the swamps and bogs of Florida and Louisiana. The common thread that links these wet worlds is something called carbon productivity.

In the Audubon Society Nature Guide for wetlands, William A. Niering explains why wetlands are among the most productive ecosystems in the world.

            The high productivity of wetlands is due to their ability to capture large amount of the sun’s energy and store it as chemical energy, as well as to their efficient recycling of that which is produced. The rate at which photosynthesis produces energy or stores sugars in plants is the rate of primary productivity. The total amount actually produced by an organism in a given time is referred to as its gross productivity. Some of this energy is used to maintain the organisms life processes; the stored energy that remains is net productivity.

Niering goes on to explain that the particularly high productivity in wetlands comes in large part from the ‘pulsing’ of the water level. The slow rise and fall bring in new nutrients and subsequently make them more accessible. New water also keeps the entire ecosystem more oxygenated. Frequent flooding enriches the water with oxygen and provides more productivity than stagnant water.

Because of such an enormous level of productivity, the diversity of life that can be supported in a wetlands environment is unmatched in this country.  In the Florida Everglades alone, six distinct ecosystems thrive. The sawgrass plains surrounding lake Okeechobee are home to radically different plants than the mangrove forests in the brackish waters of the south. The water’s transition from fresh to brackish to salty is reflected in the life supported.

Which is why it’s all the more alarming to think back to the mid 1880s, when the swamp wetland acts were passed by congress. These acts gave 65 million acres of federal land to 15 states. The purpose was so that the land could be ‘reclaimed’—wetlands were drained in order to be used for more ‘constructive’ purposes.

The transition zones that provide such a biologically rich home are also the reason wetlands are among the most delicate of ecosystems—they are easy to destroy. The 215 million acres of wetlands that existed in the continental US when the Europeans arrived have been willowed down to less than half their original size—only 99 million acres of wetlands remain in the US today.

Wetlands work the way they do because they huge transition zones between wet and dry. Their lowness and flatness makes nutrients easy to access, which allows a very high plant density and, in turn, a lot of food for other things to eat. The food chain is long in the wetlands. So when a high biodiversity is dependent on such a specific set of conditions—salinity, water level, surrounding symbiotic life—it’s incredibly easy to disrupt the delicate balance.

The Everglades are suffering right now. Besides the edging in being done by the humans that surround the glades, invasive species are ripping through the 4000 square mile wetlands.

Because invasive species have no natural predators in their new home and there are no natural controls to prevent their growth, their effect doubles. Things that shouldn’t be there are, and things that should be there are diminished due to the rampant growth of the invaders.

Burmese pythons are battling alligators. Brazilian climbing ferns are providing fire ladders up tree trunks. Walking catfish destroy fish stocks and the hydrilla plant clogs waterways, blocking sunlight and lowering oxygen levels in the water below.

But the creature causing the most damage is not an exotic reptile, bizarre plant or freaky Thai fish. It’s your friendly neighborhood tabby or slinking Siamese. Feral cats are the number one Everglade invader—an issue that has not gotten much media attention.

In a 2003 report to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife service, Pamela Jo Hatley, from the University of Florida Conservation Clinic, reported that “the number of owned and feral cats, combined, that are outdoors and potentially preying on wildlife in Florida is in the neighborhood of 12.5 to 15.8 million.”

Cats are natural predators. A kitten playing with a string is merely imitating what it would do to a tiny creature in its death throes.

More than 350 distinct species of birds have been identified as living in the Everglades, both as permanent residents and migrators. Wading birds, land birds, and birds of prey use the glades as a one stop shopping center for everything delicious and nutritious. As the biggest non-reptiles in the wetlands, they’re natural predators are slim to none. It’s not easy for a mammal to kill an animal soaring through the sky.  But some animals are engineered to hunt exactly this type of creature, and those animals are not supposed to be in the southern florida wetlands.

The Everglades National Park website notes that “invasive exotics are the primary cause of species endgngerment and have contributed to 68 percent of extinctions in the US.”

The saddest part of the issue is that it’s not something that is impossible to control. Old world climbing ferns might never be stopped.  Idiot kids are not going to stop dumping Burmese Pythons in the waters outside their house. But all we need to do to stop cats from ravaging the unique species of migratory birds is KEEP THEM INSIDE. And the cats that already roam alone outside, eating and reproducing and roving in packs, need to be colonized, treated, or humanely put down. It sounds horrible but its not that expensive and it’s a much smaller price to pay than to destroy the homes of dozens of migratory bird species.

The health of the wetlands is not dependent on a single factor. It’s a network of life with each aspect supporting another. It’s a beautiful, still, captivating place. I hope that we don’t end up merely ‘remembering’ what the Everglades ‘were like’. 

I leave you with Sidney Lanier’s poem The Marshes of Glynn, which immortalizes the beauty of the wetlands in his native Georgia.

The creeks overflow: a thousand rivulets run
‘Twixt the roots of the sod, the blades of the marshgrass stir;
Passeth a hurrying sound of wings that westward whirr;
Passeth, and all is still; and the currents cease to run;
And the sun and the marsh are one.    

Monday, April 11, 2011

What it means to be the biggest


The American National Park system is a staggering directory to all things biggest, longest, oldest and highest.  Kentucky’s Mammoth Cave system is the largest in the world. Crater Lake in Oregon is the deepest body of fresh water in the US—second worldwide only to Russia’s Lake Baikal. The tallest dunes in North America are protected in Colorado and largest trees in the world tower over California’s Sequoia National Park. The golden state also boasts North America’s tallest waterfall at Yosemite, while Alaska’s Denali National Park centers around Mt. McKinley, the continent’s largest mountain.

Oddly enough, Arizona’s Grand Canyon, the quintessential Olympian in this pantheon of hugeness, cannot legitimately claim to be the largest of its kind.  While the enormous fissure through the American west can be easily seen from space, that bearer of the title “largest” is yet unknown. This is due in part to the fact that large swaths of the jagged Himalayan mountain range lay beyond surveyable reach. Compounding the confusion is the fact that canyons can be measured a variety of ways—length, depth and width, as well as volume. The NPS website claims that the Grand Canyon could hold 4.17 trillion cubic meters. That’s more than seven quadrillion 20 oz. bottles of Coke, or 126 quintillion grains of rice. Or one 17 million year old serpentine river slowly chewing away at a temple of stone.



Regardless of it’s worldwide ranking, the Grand Canyon is the quintessential American geological landmark. It’s sublime views speak with an aching profundity that only comes with immense age—a perfect anchor with which to contrast and steady the young and hectic American dream.  It’s unsurprising that upwards of 5 million people make the trek every year, simply to stand and gaze in awe at something that is, quite literally, mind-numbingly large.

The Grand Canyon is the first place I ever experienced the sensation I spent four years studying in college.  As a philosophy major I was always drawn to the field of aesthetic philosophy, especially the point of view of the continental philosophers. Immanuel Kant’s theories on the aesthetic experience of the sublime left such a lasting impression that I decided to write my thesis about the sublime experience as related to architecture. The sublime is—to radically simplify it—a binary to beauty.  To experience something so terribly large or frightening that it diminishes your own sense of self creates a dissonance between certain mental faculties of rationality and imagination. This is the pit-of-your-stomach feeling when you look out the window of a skyscraper.

I had spent years mastering the theory behind this sensation, and it was natural that I would seek it out in real life.  Anything that I could connect to the sublime in any way was stretched until it fit my mental map.  I was smugly finding the sublime in my everyday life—which ironically and categorically meant that I wasn’t actually seeing it anywhere. 

This realization never hit me until I set foot on the south rim of the Canyon, months after I had completed my thesis.  There, before me, was the essence of the word huge. The steel and glass skyscrapers that I had so painstakingly attempted to link through words to the idea of ‘towering menaces’ would easily fit one on top of the other inside the canyon and still not reach the rim.



There was nothing I could do but sit and stare—part of a mute crowd of dozens that had stopped dead in their tracks after walking through the thin row of pine trees protecting the path from the rocks beyond.

Dumbfounded, at a loss for words and thoughts, I finally experienced the sublime. 



All images from www.google.com